Passo Gavia from Edolo
I did the Gavia from Bormio as an out and back in July 2022. This year it was harder to get to Bormio because the Valtellina train is out of service, so it seemed like a great opportunity to try the Gavia ascent from the other side.
It was a long series of trains to get to the start of the climb; Lecco>Bergamo>Brescia>Edolo. It took 6+ hours. I could have opted to climb from Lago D’Iseo, but I’ve done the bike trail from Edolo to Iseo in the past, so I opted to stay on the train up to 800meters of elevation before the start. It’s pretty amazing that the train takes you all the way up to Edolo. It’s pretty high up and a very cute little town with access to so many different ski resorts. Launching from there, you’re immediately in Val Camonica with signs that warn you “Montagne del Giro d’Italia”.
I was thrilled to land in Ponte di Legno and take a wandering route through town. It’s BEAUTIFUL and welcoming and it offered many cobblestone roads on which to progress up up up. Then, the switchbacks begin. And just 13km from the summit you get a warning… it’s 1360m to the top… I love distracting myself with math while I suffer and the math on that is easy… that means that the next 13km are more than 10% grade average. Woof. This is going to be a beast. But I hydrated and fueled up well and I have confidence in this body. She can do it. It was hot, so a little bit of music, a lot of water and electrolytes and a little bit of crazy were going to help. Some highlight moments:
Some motorcyclists had stopped to enjoy the view at a switchback turn. I had Some Nights by Fun playing and made sure to rock out, singing those lyrics as loud as I could, giving them a good chuckle.
Passing the 14% sign and screaming out WELCOME TO HELL!!! No one was around, so it was me yelling to myself
Approaching a cyclist sitting on a bench at a great viewing point and saying Ciao. He responded “No Italian.” To which i said “Hi!” He shared that he had no more power left after already ascending Mortirolo that day. I invited him, “Come ride with me.” It seemed to provide motivation and he got up, but i didn’t stop, so i didn’t see him after that…. Until the top. It was the motivation he needed and he did end up arriving about 20 minutes after me.
Hitting snow line. There were still huge piles of snow right along the road and there was nothing more delightful than grabbing a snowball and rubbing it on my neck as I climbed.
I hit the peak and recognized the sisters who run the Rifugio at the top. Their parents built the structure 70 years ago and they’ve been serving crazy cyclists their whole lives. What a life. It was much colder at the top than two years ago. The lake near the summit still had ice on its surface. What a different world. What a delight to be able to ascend with the power of my own body, to see other cyclists up there with full bikepacking gear and the lightest of equipment as well.
I live for these Big Passes!! Thank you Gavia. Thank you to the people who maintain these incredible roads. And thank you to glorious nature for all of your delights. I especially enjoyed the camosci at the top and marmot chirps all the way up the ascent.
