Dutch Pedaling Prowess: An Impromptu Bellagio Adventure

As a guide, I can’t help but get excited whenever I lead a tour with Dutch cyclists. With more bikes than people in the Netherlands, it seems they come out of the womb pedaling. Cycling is a way of life there, and they’re supremely confident navigating any terrain.

This week, I had the pleasure of guiding two Dutch couples alongside a super-fit New Yorker on our tasting tour. We arrived early at our breakfast stop and found ourselves with an unexpected gap before our next scheduled stop—perfect timing to explore some lesser-traveled trails around Bellagio.

We set off up an old farm road, the gentle lowing of cows echoing from the pastures above. The group even tried to lure a few curious calves to the fence for a quick pet—alas, no dice! On one technical stretch, the more adventurous riders surged ahead, tackling the bumps with ease. Those accustomed to paved paths dismounted briefly, walking twenty meters or so in two spots before remounting and carrying on without a hitch.

Our spontaneous detour led us straight to the Museo del Ghisallo, where a local resident graciously shared the chapel’s rich history. Originally built around 1200 by Count Ghisallo, it was expanded in the 1500s by the Visconti-Sforza family of Milan and finally took its present form in the early 20th century. We learned that Gino Bartali knelt here before the 1948 Tour de France, vowing that he’d return a yellow jersey to the chapel—and sure enough, a 1948 yellow jersey hangs on display today, alongside Fausto Coppi’s 1949 yellow jersey.

After our unexpected history lesson, we returned to our regular itinerary: sipping prosecco and wine, soaking in the panoramic lake views, and enjoying a thrilling descent back toward Bellagio. Spirits were high, laughter was abundant, and it was truly a blast to share such a beautiful day with this remarkably capable group.